I have a broken switch housing for the power light on a rev 0 keyboard.
All my replacement switches I think are 'welded' closed. I can't seem to find a way to open them so I can replace the stem/plunger with the light bulb stem.
Any suggestions.
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The switches are sealed but I found them fairly easy to open. I’d just place a utility knife blade on the joint and give it a rap with a screwdriver handle. After servicing I’d glue them back together
@Wayne is correct. They are fairly easy to open. I strongly recommend you use a utility knife blade like the one shown here with a fresh tip AND that you use to score the join line of the switch halves that is opposite the contact pins. Otherwise you could damage the contact pin internals. I have some posts on doing this and still intend to post a video of the process for repairing kbd switches with bad internal contacts, but opening the DC switch case is the same for the power on light enclosure as well.
But don't use a screw driver like my early photos show to pry them open, use the utiltiy blade.
DC-51-2.jpg
Thanks everyone!!
Much appcaitred.
Will do as instructed.
off topic but related. Both of my Rev 0 keyboards have the number row not working for any key. The other rows have most of the keys working.
It is possible all switches on both KB's are bad but unlikely. I tested a few with Ohm meter and they beep when presssed so a few switches is good a few.
Where might I look for other faults?
Thanks !!!
These are a pain to put back together !!
Many small parts!
The thin metal contacts/legs bends if you look at them wrong.
There seems to be a light bluish coating on one side of the internal metal plate. It has chipped off in many places. So about 70% is still on the plate. The little bits were floating around inside of the switch. I cleaned those out.
I polished the internal section of the legs and the metal "C" pressure spring. I used a fine fiberglass brush. They were all tarnished. Cleaned with ISO after.
I was able to get the switch back together. I think I got everthing lined up, it is very difficult when putting the halves together. SuperGlue worked with tis type of palstic.
When finished, the switch still did not work. Was it the bluish coating? Or the legs not lined up inside correctlly.
Would and UltraSonic cleaner work well for these switches? I just saw a couple videos of this being done with modern cherry key swithces and it worked great.
A simple way to keep the main sping from launching into oblivion, is to work inside a large clear palstic bag. It is not 100% foolproof, but it works quite well in helping not to loose that spring. FYI